Chitral and the Kalash Valleys: Road Trip Guide

Chitral sits in a deep river valley below the Hindu Kush, reached by the Lowari Pass or by air. South of the town, three side valleys hold Kalash villages with their own religion and festivals.

The Chitral district lies in the far north-west of Pakistan, bordered by Afghanistan to the west and north. The town of Chitral is the main base, with a bazaar, a fort and a small airfield. The Kalash valleys of Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir run south and west of the town. The Kalash follow a religion distinct from Islam, with festivals through the year. Roads are narrow and slow, and the Lowari Pass closes in winter.

impt.pk guides · Updated October 2026

Day by day

01
Arrive in Chitral town
Lowari Pass or air, then bazaar and fort
Reach Chitral by the Lowari road or by air. Walk the bazaar and see the fort above the river. Settle in for the night.
02
Bumburet valley
Jeep road south from Ayun
Drive south to Ayun and turn up the Bumburet valley. The road is rough in places. Kalash villages sit along the stream, with wooden houses and carved pillars.
03
Rumbur and Birir
Side valleys, narrow tracks
Continue to Rumbur and Birir, the quieter Kalash valleys. Tracks are narrow and steep in parts. Allow a full day and return to Chitral before dark.
04
Return over the Lowari
Long drive south, or fly out
Drive back over the Lowari Pass towards Dir, or take a flight if one is running. The pass road is slow and can be affected by weather.

Before you go

Check the pass

The Lowari Pass is often closed by snow from late autumn to spring. Ask locally before setting out, and allow for the Lowari tunnel where open.

Carry cash

There are few banks and cash machines outside Chitral town. Bring enough cash for the whole trip, and change money before leaving the main towns.

Ask before photographing

The Kalash are a small community. Ask before taking photographs of people or inside villages, and respect any request to stop.

Allow slow days

Roads in the side valleys are narrow and often unsurfaced. Distances that look short on a map take much longer. Plan fewer stops and start early.

Getting to Chitral

Chitral town lies at about 1,500 metres in a valley of the Chitral River, below the Hindu Kush. The main road from the south crosses the Lowari Pass from Dir. The pass is high and is usually closed by snow in winter. A tunnel on the Lowari route has improved access, but the road can still be slow. The drive from Dir takes several hours in good conditions.

Pakistan International Airlines has in the past operated flights between Islamabad and Chitral, but schedules change and flights are often cancelled by weather. Check current schedules before relying on air travel. From Gilgit, a road runs north over the Shandur Pass towards Mastuj and Chitral. The Shandur Pass is also seasonal and is usually open in summer only.

Road conditions

The Lowari road is narrow in places and can be busy with trucks. Landslides and snow can block it. Allow a full day from Dir and check conditions locally before leaving. The side valleys south of Chitral use narrow jeep tracks.

Chitral town

Chitral town is the administrative centre of the district. The bazaar runs along the main street, with shops selling cloth, hardware and food. The Chitral Fort stands above the river and dates from the nineteenth century, though the site is older. The fort is a landmark rather than a fully open monument, and access can be limited. Ask locally before approaching.

The Shahi Qila, or royal fort, and the nearby mosque are part of the town's history. The Chitral Museum holds local crafts and items from the Kalash and other communities. The town is a practical base for the valleys, with the main road south to Ayun and the Kalash turn-offs.

The Kalash valleys

Three valleys south and west of Chitral hold the Kalash villages: Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir. The Kalash speak their own language and follow a religion that is distinct from Islam. Their festivals include Chilam Joshi in spring and Chaumos in winter. Visitors are welcome in many villages, but these are living communities, not open-air museums.

Bumburet is the most visited valley and has the easiest road. Rumbur and Birir are quieter and their tracks are narrower. The valleys lie at roughly 2,000 metres, with terraced fields and walnut trees. The Kalash build wooden houses with carved pillars and decorated doorways. Ask before entering a village or photographing people.

Festival timing

Kalash festivals follow the seasonal calendar. Chilam Joshi falls in spring and Chaumos in winter. Dates can shift, so check locally before planning a trip around a festival. Outside festival times the valleys are quiet.

Access and permits

The Kalash valleys are generally open to visitors, but rules can change. Some areas near the Afghan border may require a No Objection Certificate (NOC). Check current official advice before travelling and carry identification.

Seasons and practicalities

The easiest months for Chitral and the Kalash valleys are from May to October. Spring brings blossom in the valleys, and summer is warm in the day and cool at night. The Lowari Pass is usually open in these months, though rain can cause landslides. Winter closes the pass and cuts road access, though flights sometimes continue.

Chitral is a conservative area. Dress modestly, especially in villages. Alcohol is not openly available. The Kalash make their own wine for festivals, but visitors should not assume it is offered. Mobile coverage is patchy in the side valleys. Carry cash, as there are few banks outside the town.

Safety and advice

Chitral has generally been calm for travellers, but the region borders Afghanistan and rules can change. Some border districts and parts of the wider region may need an NOC. Check current official advice before going and follow local guidance.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to visit Chitral and the Kalash valleys?

May to October is the easiest window. The Lowari Pass is usually open and the side valley tracks are passable. Spring brings blossom, and summer is warm. Winter snow closes the pass and can cut road access, though flights sometimes continue.

Do you need a permit for the Kalash valleys?

The Kalash valleys are generally open to visitors, but rules can change. Some areas near the Afghan border may require a No Objection Certificate (NOC). Check current official advice before travelling and carry identification.

How do you reach Chitral?

Most travellers come by road over the Lowari Pass from Dir, which takes several hours. A tunnel has improved the route, but the pass can close in winter. Flights from Islamabad have operated in the past, but schedules change and weather often causes cancellations.

What should you respect when visiting Kalash villages?

The Kalash are a small community with their own religion and festivals. Ask before taking photographs or entering a village. Dress modestly, do not assume alcohol is offered, and follow any local guidance. These are living villages, not tourist sites.