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Notes from the road

44 stories about Pakistan’s food, roads, mountains, coast and crafts.

Close-up of street vendor pouring chai into small glasses, creating a lively street food scene.
Food · 3 min read

The tea that runs the country

From a Karachi dhaba to a Passu guest house, doodh patti is the one thing every stop on the road agrees on.

Truck art4 min readWho paints the trucks? Inside a Rawalpindi workshopRawalpindi's workshops turn lorries into moving galleries. Here is how the painters work, where to watch them and what to look for on the road.
An elderly man pulling a cart through a busy marketplace in Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
Seasons3 min readAutumn on the Karakoram: a week of gold poplarsA week in Hunza when the poplars turn gold, the walnut harvest comes in and the high peaks stand clear above the valley.
Discover the scenic Hunza Valley with snow-capped mountains and autumn foliage.
Coast5 min readKund Malir in winter, the beach with nobody on itWinter brings cool air, clear light and empty sand to Balochistan's Makran coast. The beach at Kund Malir is at its most peaceful from November to February.
A man stands on a raft with a fishing rod in Gwadar, Balochistan, enjoying the turquoise sea and summer sun.
Food4 min readJalebi at midnight, LahoreIn Lahore, jalebi is not only a dessert. It is fried at dawn, sold by the weight and eaten late into the night in the old city and beyond.
A lively celebration with traditional dancing and colorful decoration in Lahore, Pakistan during nighttime.
Coast3 min readThe Princess of Hope and the other rocks of HingolHingol National Park holds a natural rock figure known as the Princess of Hope, along with mud volcanoes, deep gorges and a coastline on the Arabian Sea.
Stunning view of rugged mountains in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.
Night sky4 min readSleeping under the Milky Way at 3,300 metresAt 3,300 metres below Nanga Parbat, Fairy Meadows offers dark skies and a clear view of the Milky Way on autumn nights.
Stunning view of the Milky Way galaxy captured over Kandiāro, Sindh, Pakistan.
Seasons5 min readCherry blossom season in HunzaEach spring the valleys below Rakaposhi turn white and pink as apricot and cherry trees flower. The season is short, the weather changeable and the fruit later appears dried, fresh and in jam.
A peaceful park scene with cherry blossoms and mountain backdrop on a sunny day.
Food4 min readThe apricots of HunzaApricots colour Hunza's spring and fill its summer markets. The fruit is dried on rooftops, pressed into oil and served at every meal.
Breathtaking view of Hunza Valley at sunset with lush greenery and majestic mountains.
Heritage3 min readThe Badshahi Mosque at dawnLahore's Badshahi Mosque is at its most peaceful in the early morning. The light, the scale and the quiet make dawn the best time to see this Mughal masterpiece.
View of the iconic Badshahi Mosque in Lahore with visitors at twilight, showcasing its architectural beauty.
Food5 min readFort Road Food Street after darkWhen the sun sets over the Walled City, Fort Road Food Street fills with smoke, spice and the sound of diners. Here is what to see and taste after dark.
Street vendor flipping paratha on a tawa in an outdoor market setting.
Food3 min readA Pakistani breakfast: paratha, halwa puri and lassiLahore wakes to the smell of frying parathas and sweet halwa. Here is how the city takes its first meal, and where to find the classics.
Close-up of a man in traditional attire at a cultural gathering in Lahore, Pakistan.
Food4 min readNihari, a slow morning dishA beef stew simmered overnight, nihari is eaten at dawn in Karachi. The dish rewards patience, both in the kitchen and at the table.
Frere Hall, a prominent colonial-era building in Karachi, stands majestically under a clear sky.
Heritage3 min readWhat to expect at the Wagah ceremonyThe daily flag-lowering drill at the India-Pakistan border near Lahore draws large crowds. Here is how the ceremony unfolds and what to plan for.
Traditional fire ceremony in Lahore, Pakistan, with a captivating performer.
Lakes4 min readAttabad Lake, made by a landslideA landslide in 2010 dammed the Hunza River and created a deep blue lake. The water swallowed part of the Karakoram Highway, and a new road now skirts its edge.
A man gazes at the stunning turquoise waters of Attabad Lake surrounded by majestic mountains in Hunza, Pakistan.
Mountains4 min readWhy the Passu Cones look like thatThe sharp, striped peaks above Passu are not just photogenic. Their shape records millions of years of uplift, folding and glacial erosion in the Karakoram.
Snow-capped peaks and a scenic welcome sign in Pasu, Pakistan.
Mountains4 min readK2 and the Concordia trek, explainedThe walk from Skardu to Concordia leads to the throne room of the mountain gods, where K2 and three other 8,000 m peaks surround the Baltoro glacier.
Majestic mountains in Skardu with a scenic landscape, highlighting natural beauty and adventure.
Mountains4 min readNanga Parbat, the naked mountainNanga Parbat, the naked mountain, dominates the horizon above Fairy Meadows. The peak's south face drops sharply, and the surrounding valleys offer views, trails and seasonal fruit.
Majestic view of Nanga Parbat's snow-covered peak enveloped by clouds in Pakistan.
Wildlife3 min readDeosai, the land of giantsA high plateau above 4,000 metres in Gilgit-Baltistan, Deosai holds brown bears, marmots and summer wildflowers. Access is seasonal and the weather changes fast.
Breathtaking view of a curving road leading to the snow-capped ranges of Gilgit-Baltistan under a vibrant blue sky.
Wildlife5 min readThe brown bears of DeosaiThe Deosai Plains form one of the highest plateaus on earth. In summer, brown bears roam its grasslands and visitors can watch them from a respectful distance.
Crystal clear stream flowing through rocky landscape in Gittidas, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, under a vibrant blue sky.
Wildlife4 min readSnow leopards of the KarakoramSnow leopards live in the high valleys around Hunza. Learn where they are found, what signs to look for and how to visit responsibly.
Breathtaking view of majestic snow-capped mountains in Hunza Nagar under a dramatic sky.
Wildlife4 min readThe blind dolphins of the IndusA freshwater dolphin that navigates by sound, found in the Indus near Sukkur. A guide to seeing it and understanding its river.
Candid street portrait of a thoughtful child sitting outdoors in Sukkur, Sindh, Pakistan.
Heritage4 min readThe stone carvings of MakliMakli's tombs carry centuries of carving in sandstone and marble, set on a plateau above Thatta. The site rewards slow walking and close looking.
Intricate stone carvings in the corridor of Makli Necropolis, Thatta, showcasing historical Sindhi architecture.
Heritage4 min readWhat is left at Mohenjo-daroBrick streets, a Great Bath and a small museum of finds. A guide to what survives at the Indus city and how to see it.
Picturesque view of famous oriental graves with elaborate sandstone carvings part of Chaukhandi tombs located in Sindh province of Pakistan
Culture4 min readThe Kalash spring festivalEach April the Kalash valleys of Chitral hold a spring festival of music, dance and walnut bread. Here is what a visitor can see and taste.
Elderly Kalash woman wearing vibrant traditional attire in Chitral Valley, Pakistan.
Culture3 min readPolo at Shandur, the highest ground in the gameOnce a year a flat meadow at 3,700 metres becomes the stage for a hard, fast game between Chitral and Gilgit. The rest of the year the pass belongs to shepherds and yaks.
Close-up of bright red maple leaves in autumn, Chitral, Pakistan.
Truck art3 min readTruck-art motifs and what they meanThe painted trucks of Pakistan carry a visual language of luck, protection and beauty. Here is how to read the motifs and where to find them.
A beautifully decorated truck showcasing vibrant traditional designs during a festival.
Truck art5 min readThe sound of a jingle truckPainted lorries, bells and roadside chai: a guide to the moving folk art that fills Rawalpindi's roads.
Vibrantly painted trucks showcasing traditional Pakistani truck art parked in a yard.
Culture4 min readQawwali nights and the music of the shrinesQawwali is the devotional music of South Asia's shrines. In Lahore and across Pakistan, it fills courtyards and concert halls with poetry and rhythm.
Close-up of a man wearing a colorful traditional turban in a lively Lahore market.
Crafts5 min readMultan’s blue pottery and kashi tilesThe city’s kilns and workshops keep a craft alive that has decorated shrines and tombs for centuries. Here is where to see blue pottery and kashi tiles being made.
Explore the architectural beauty of Shah Rukn-e-Alam Mausoleum in Multan, Pakistan.
Crafts4 min readThe Peshawari chappalA guide to the Peshawari chappal, the leather sandal that has been made in Peshawar for generations, and where to see the craft in the city.
A candid street scene capturing local men in the bustling Peshawar market, highlighting cultural attire and interactions.
Crafts4 min readAjrak, the Sindhi block printAjrak is Sindh's resist-printed cloth, dyed in indigo and madder and printed with wooden blocks. Hyderabad remains a centre of its production.
An elderly man in traditional attire sits thoughtfully on a street bench in Hyderabad, Pakistan.
Culture5 min readHunza’s old water channelsHunza’s old water channels have carried glacial melt to the valley’s fields for centuries. They are still in use and can be followed on foot.
Stunning autumn landscape of scenic snowy mountains in the Hunza Valley, offering a breathtaking view.
History3 min readBuilding the Karakoram HighwayThe Karakoram Highway took two decades to build through some of the world's highest mountains. Its story is written in the rock, the bridges and the towns along the route.
A stunning view of snow-capped mountains and green conifers in Gilgit, emphasizing nature's beauty.
Coast4 min readThe Makran coast at sunsetThe Makran coast runs along the Arabian Sea from Karachi to Gwadar. At sunset, the light softens over Ormara and the fishing harbours, and the day's catch comes in.
A man in traditional clothing stands by a motorcycle cart loaded with goods in Tando Ādam, Pakistan.
Coast5 min readAstola, the island off the Makran coastA small, dry island in the Arabian Sea, reached by boat from the Makran coast near Ormara. Seabirds, clear water and a lighthouse, with no hotels and no shade.
View from inside a colorful rickshaw on a sunny day, showcasing street life in Pakistan.
Seasons4 min readWhere to go in the monsoonThe monsoon changes the map. Naran and the Kaghan valley fill with water, cloud and traffic, while the northern passes stay open and the lowlands turn green.
Breathtaking view of a serene lake surrounded by majestic mountains in Naran, Pakistan.
Seasons3 min readWinter in the north: what stays openSkardu does not close for winter. Some hotels, bazaars and roads stay open, but access depends on weather and official advice. Check before you go.
Explore the winter beauty of Hunza Nagar's snow-covered roads and majestic mountains.
Heritage4 min readThe shape of the Faisal MosqueA modern mosque at the foot of the Margalla Hills, designed by a Turkish architect and built as a national landmark. Its tent form, four minarets and tiled interior reward a slow visit.
Aerial view of Faisal Mosque in Islamabad during evening twilight, showcasing its iconic minarets.
Heritage3 min readLahore Museum and the Zamzama gunA guide to the Lahore Museum and the Zamzama gun, with what to see inside and around the building on The Mall.
An iconic view of the Badshahi Mosque in Lahore, showcasing its stunning Mughal architecture.
Heritage4 min readRohtas Fort, a day from IslamabadA sixteenth-century fortress in the Salt Range, within easy reach of Islamabad, offers a day of history and landscape.
Three soccer balls and training bibs on a lush green field in Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
Heritage3 min readInside the Khewra salt mineThe Khewra Salt Mine in Punjab is one of the world's oldest and largest salt mines. Its vast chambers and salt formations draw visitors from across Pakistan and beyond.
Stunning aerial view of a highway interchange in Islamabad, showcasing modern urban infrastructure and greenery.
Heritage4 min readThe temples of Katas RajAn ancient temple complex around a sacred pond in Punjab, within easy reach of Islamabad and rich in story, stone and quiet.
A stunning night-time capture of the iconic Pakistan Monument in Islamabad, a symbol of national unity.
Seasons4 min readZiarat and its juniper forestThe highland town of Ziarat in Balochistan is known for its ancient juniper forest, cool summers and the whitewashed Quaid-e-Azam Residency.
Beautiful view of Kalam town with lush mountains in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.

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