Polo at Shandur, the highest ground in the game

Shandur Top sits at about 3,700 metres on the road between Chitral and Gilgit, a broad grassy saddle ringed by bare rock. For most of the year it is a quiet pass. Each July it fills with horses, riders and spectators for a polo match between teams from Chitral and Gilgit, played on what is widely described as the highest polo ground in the world.

A pass between two valleys

The road from Chitral climbs north through Mastuj and the Yarkhun valley before reaching the pass. From Gilgit the approach runs through Gupis and Phander. The two sides are different worlds: Chitral looks west towards Afghanistan, Gilgit looks east into the Karakoram. Shandur Top is the meeting point, a wide bowl of grass and a small lake that fills with meltwater in summer.

The pass is high enough that snow can lie into May and return in October. Summer is short. Herders bring goats and yaks up to the surrounding meadows, and the lake draws migratory birds. Nights are cold even in July, and weather can close the road with little warning.

The ground itself is a rough field marked out on the meadow, not a manicured pitch. There are no grandstands. Spectators stand at the edges or watch from the slope above. The setting is the point: rock, grass, thin air and a game played at speed.

The game and its horses

Polo in northern Pakistan is played on small, quick mountain horses, often called polo ponies, bred for stamina at altitude. The Chitral and Gilgit teams meet at Shandur in a match that has been played for decades. The exact origin is debated, and local accounts differ, but the fixture is now a fixed summer event.

The play is fast and physical. Riders use long mallets and the ball moves quickly across the rough ground. Falls are common and the crowd reacts to every swing. Matches are short and intense, with rest periods for the horses. The standard of riding is high, and the horses are treated as part of the team.

Polo is not only a Shandur event. It is played in Chitral town, in Gilgit and in Hunza through the summer, often on smaller grounds. The Shandur match is the largest gathering, but a visitor can see the game elsewhere with less travel and fewer crowds.

Getting there and when to go

The Shandur match is usually held in July, though the date moves. The road from Chitral to Shandur is long and partly unpaved, and the Gilgit side is also slow. Most visitors travel by four-wheel drive. The pass can be closed by snow outside summer, so the trip is a summer one.

Chitral town is the usual base on the western side. It has a small airport with flights that depend on weather, and road links south to Dir and Lowari. The Lowari tunnel has improved access, but travel times remain long. From Chitral to Shandur is a full day's drive, so many visitors stay near Mastuj or camp at the pass.

Permits and access rules can change. Some districts near borders require a No Objection Certificate, and advice for the Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan regions should be checked with official sources before travel. Do not rely on old reports.

What to eat in Chitral

Chitrali food is mountain food: wheat bread, apricot, walnut, cheese and mutton. A local speciality is the flatbread baked in a tandoor or on a griddle, eaten with butter and a salted cheese. Apricots are dried and stored for winter, and apricot oil is used in cooking.

Walnuts from Chitral are well known across Pakistan. In summer the bazaars in Chitral town sell fresh fruit, dried mulberries and honey. Tea is served strong and sweet, often with cardamom. In the villages around Mastuj, simple meals of rice, lentils and mutton are common.

At the Shandur match, food stalls appear for the crowd. Expect grilled meat, bread and tea rather than a restaurant menu. Bring water and warm clothing, and carry out what you bring in.

Beyond the match

Chitral town has the old Chitral Fort, still in use, and the Shahi Qila area near the river. The Kalash valleys of Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir lie south of Chitral and are home to a distinct culture with its own festivals. Access is by jeep on narrow roads.

The road north from Chitral towards Mastuj passes orchards and small settlements. Garam Chashma, a hot spring village to the west, is a local day trip. The Hindu Kush peaks rise on the horizon throughout the valley.

The Shandur trip rewards patience. The match is one day, but the journey through Chitral and the upper valleys is the larger part of the experience. Allow time for weather, road delays and the altitude.

Where to stop

• Chitral townMain base on the western side, with the old fort, bazaars and road links south.
• MastujA town on the road north to Shandur, useful for breaking the drive.
• Shandur TopThe pass itself, with the polo ground, a small lake and summer pastures.
• PhanderA valley on the Gilgit side with a lake and trout streams, on the eastern approach.
• Garam ChashmaA hot spring village west of Chitral town, reached by a rough road.

Frequently asked questions