Winter in the north: what stays open

Skardu sits in Baltistan at about 2,200 metres, where the Indus and Shyok rivers meet. Winter brings cold days and snow, and many services scale back. Some hotels, shops and transport links remain open. Access depends on weather and road conditions. Check current official advice before travelling.

How cold does it get

Skardu has a cold desert climate. Winter days can be clear and sunny, but temperatures often fall below freezing at night. Snow can lie in the town and on surrounding slopes. Pack layers, a warm hat and gloves. Roads and paths can be icy, so sturdy footwear helps.

The sun is low and days are short. Morning frost is common. Afternoon sun can feel mild, but shade stays cold. Keep a torch and a power bank, as power cuts can happen. Check the forecast before setting out and allow extra time for delays.

Higher valleys such as Shigar and Khaplu are colder and can see heavier snow. Travel there only if roads are open and you have local advice. The Karakoram Highway and the road to Skardu can close after heavy snow, so build flexibility into plans.

Hotels and food in town

Some hotels and guest houses in Skardu stay open through winter, but many close or run with fewer staff. Book ahead and confirm that heating is available. Ask whether the kitchen is open and whether hot water is reliable. A central location near the bazaar makes short walks easier in the cold.

The bazaar has shops selling dried apricots, walnuts and apricot oil. Small eateries serve Balti dishes such as chapshuro, a filled pastry, and mamtu, steamed dumplings. Tea stalls offer butter tea and green tea. Opening hours can be shorter in winter, so go earlier in the day.

Local produce is limited in winter, but dried fruit and nuts are widely available. Try apricot soup, a sweet and sour dish made from dried apricots. Some kitchens serve it in winter. Ask what is fresh before ordering and expect simple, warming food rather than long menus.

What you can see

Skardu Fort, also called Kharpocho, stands on a rock above the town. The climb is steep and can be slippery with snow. Check locally whether it is open. The view over the Indus and the town is clear on sunny days. The old bazaar and the polo ground are easy to visit on foot.

Upper Kachura Lake lies a short drive from Skardu. In winter the lake can freeze and the road may be icy. Ask locally about access. The cold desert landscape around Skardu, with sand dunes and rocky ridges, is striking under snow. Short walks from town are possible when paths are clear.

Shigar Fort is about an hour's drive from Skardu on a good road. It is a restored fort with a museum and gardens. Opening hours can vary in winter, so check before travelling. Khaplu Palace is further east and makes a longer day trip. Only go if the road is open and daylight allows a safe return.

Getting there and around

Most visitors reach Skardu by road from Gilgit, a journey of several hours on the Skardu Road. The road can close after snow, and the Karakoram Highway can also be affected. Flights between Islamabad and Skardu operate when weather allows, but winter flights are often delayed or cancelled. Keep plans flexible.

Shared transport and local taxis run in town, but services are fewer in winter. Agree the route and waiting time before setting off. For trips to Shigar or Khaplu, ask locally about road conditions and whether a 4x4 is needed. Carry food, water and warm clothing in case of delays.

Some areas of Gilgit-Baltistan and border districts may require a No Objection Certificate (NOC) or have travel advisories. Rules change, so check current official advice before travelling. Carry identification. Register with the local authorities if required. Do not rely on outdated information from other travellers.

Practical points for winter

Daylight is short, so plan activities for the morning and early afternoon. Keep a buffer day in case roads or flights are disrupted. Confirm that your accommodation has heating and that water is available. Carry cash, as card payments are limited and some services may be closed.

Mobile signal and internet can be unreliable in winter. Download maps and save offline information before leaving. Tell someone your plans and expected return time. Travel with a local guide for trips outside town if you are unsure of conditions. Conditions can change quickly, so ask locally each day.

Winter is quiet and many services are reduced, but Skardu does not shut down. With flexible plans and current information, a winter visit is possible. Check weather, road status and official advice before setting out. Keep expectations modest and allow for delays.

Where to find it

• SkarduMain town with bazaar, fort and polo ground. Some hotels and eateries stay open in winter.
• ShigarAbout an hour from Skardu. Shigar Fort and gardens. Check winter opening and road conditions.
• KhapluFurther east, with Khaplu Palace. A longer day trip. Go only if the road is open.
• Upper Kachura LakeShort drive from Skardu. The lake can freeze in winter. Ask locally about access.

Frequently asked questions