Deosai, the land of giants

Deosai is a plateau in Gilgit-Baltistan, south of Skardu and west of the Indus. Most of the park lies above 4,000 metres, which makes it one of the highest protected areas in the country. The name is often given as the land of giants. The open ground, thin air and wide sky explain the name.

Where the plateau lies

Deosai National Park covers a broad, rolling plateau between the Skardu valley and the Astore valley. The main approach from Skardu runs south through the Sadpara area and climbs onto the plateau. From Astore, a road comes up from the west. The two routes meet on the plateau, so a crossing is possible in summer.

The plateau sits at roughly 4,000 to 4,500 metres. There are few trees. Instead there are grasslands, small streams, shallow lakes and patches of snow that linger into July. Sheosar Lake, near the western side, is a shallow lake with clear water and a flat shore. The surrounding ground is soft in early summer.

The park was established in 1993, chiefly to protect the Himalayan brown bear. The animals here are a distinct population, and the park is one of the better places in Pakistan to look for them. Sightings are never guaranteed. Early morning and late afternoon give the best chance.

Bears, marmots and summer flowers

The Himalayan brown bear is the animal most visitors hope to see. The bears are omnivorous and dig for roots and tubers. They are shy and usually move away from people. Binoculars help. Keep a good distance and never approach or feed an animal.

Himalayan marmots are common and easier to watch. They sit upright near their burrows and whistle when disturbed. Golden marmots also occur in the region. Other mammals include red fox, Tibetan wolf and the occasional snow leopard, though the last is rarely seen on the open plateau.

From late June to August the grassland carries wildflowers. Several kinds of primula, gentian and lousewort colour the ground. Birds include lammergeier, golden eagle and various pipits and larks. The short summer is the whole growing season, and the flowering is compressed into a few weeks.

Getting there and when to go

The plateau is usually open from late June to September. Snow closes the roads for much of the year. Even in summer, snow can fall and the temperature can drop sharply after dark. Nights are cold at this height. Take warm layers, rain protection and a hat.

From Skardu, the drive to the plateau takes a few hours on rough tracks. From Astore the climb is also slow. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is sensible. Fuel and supplies should be arranged in Skardu or Astore before setting out, because there is nothing on the plateau.

The park lies in Gilgit-Baltistan. Access rules and permit requirements can change, and some nearby districts have travel advisories. Check current official advice before travelling and carry identification. Do not rely on old reports about road conditions or opening dates.

Walking and camping on the plateau

There are no marked trails across most of Deosai. Walks follow shepherd tracks, stream beds and open ground. A guide who knows the area is useful, especially in cloud or mist. Navigation is harder than it looks because the terrain is uniform and landmarks are few.

Camping is possible in summer, but the ground is wet in places and the wind can be strong. Camp away from streams and animal burrows. Fires are a risk to the grassland and are best avoided. Carry out all rubbish, including food waste.

Altitude is the main concern. The plateau is high enough to cause headaches and breathlessness in people who come up quickly. A night at Skardu or Astore before the climb helps. Descend if symptoms worsen. Travel insurance that covers trekking and evacuation is worth arranging in advance.

Food and local life

There are no restaurants or shops on the plateau. Food comes with you. In Skardu and Astore, the bazaars sell apricots, walnuts, dried fruit and bread. Balti cooking includes simple curries, lentils and noodle soups. Tea is offered almost everywhere and is a good way to warm up.

The plateau is used in summer by herders from nearby valleys, who bring livestock to the high pasture. Their camps are temporary. Ask before photographing people or animals, and keep visits short. The grassland is fragile and recovers slowly from vehicle damage.

The park is managed for wildlife and grazing together, which is not always easy. Visitors can help by staying on established tracks, keeping noise low and giving bears and marmots room. The reward is a quiet highland that still works as a wild place.

Where to find it

• SkarduMain gateway town for the plateau, with bazaars, supplies and a short drive to the Sadpara approach.
• AstoreWestern approach to Deosai, reached from the Karakoram Highway and used for crossings in summer.
• Sheosar LakeShallow lake on the western plateau, with a flat shore and open views across the grassland.
• SadparaVillage and lake area south of Skardu, on the usual route up towards the plateau.

Frequently asked questions