Khaplu

Visiting Khaplu

What Khaplu is like

Khaplu is a town of about 2,600 m in the Shyok valley, east of Skardu. The valley floor is wide and open, with the river braiding through gravel beds. Around the town, irrigation channels feed terraces of apricot, apple and cherry trees. In spring the valley turns white and pink with blossom, and in autumn the leaves turn yellow.

The old town is a compact area of stone and timber houses, many with carved wooden balconies. The bazaar is small and serves the surrounding villages. Life moves at a slow pace, and the town is a contrast to the busier centres of Gilgit and Skardu.

Balti heritage

Khaplu was the seat of a local ruling family, and several buildings from that period survive. The palace and the old mosque are the best known. The architecture uses local stone, mud plaster and carved wood, suited to the cold winters.

What to see

The main sight is Khaplu Palace, a restored 19th-century building with a courtyard and a small museum. It stands above the old town and gives a view over the valley. Nearby, the Chaqchan Mosque is a 14th-century building with carved wooden pillars and a peaceful courtyard. Both are in the old core, within walking distance of each other.

The bazaar is worth a wander for local produce and to see everyday town life. Across the river, the village of Saling has old houses and orchards. North of town, the Thalle valley leads up towards the mountains and offers short walks.

Khaplu Palace

The palace was built in the 19th century for the local ruler and restored in recent years. It has a museum with exhibits on Balti culture and history. A fee is charged for entry. The building is a good example of Balti craftsmanship.

Chaqchan Mosque

This mosque is said to date from the 14th century and is one of the oldest in Baltistan. It has a simple prayer hall with carved wooden columns and a small courtyard. Visitors should dress modestly and avoid prayer times.

A day or two there

A full day covers the palace, the old mosque and the bazaar. Start at the palace in the morning, then walk down through the old town to the mosque. In the afternoon, cross the river to Saling or take a short drive into the Thalle valley for views of the surrounding peaks.

With a second day, explore further up the Shyok valley towards Hushe or the edge of the Karakoram. The road continues east to the village of Hushe, a starting point for treks. Alternatively, use Khaplu as a base for visiting the nearby hot springs and villages.

Short walks

The area around Khaplu has easy walks through orchards and along irrigation channels. The Thalle valley offers longer walks with views of the Masherbrum range. Local guides can be arranged in town.

Getting there and around

Khaplu is reached by road from Skardu, about 100 km to the west. The drive takes around three hours on a mostly paved road that follows the Shyok river. From Gilgit, the journey to Skardu takes about six to seven hours, and then another three hours to Khaplu. Shared vans and taxis run from Skardu to Khaplu, and private hire is also possible.

Within Khaplu, the old town and palace are close enough to walk. For Saling and the Thalle valley, a local taxi or a hired vehicle is useful. The roads in the side valleys are rough in places.

From Skardu

The road from Skardu to Khaplu follows the Shyok river and passes through several villages. It is usually open from spring to autumn. In winter, snow can cause delays. Check road conditions locally before setting out.

Practical notes

Khaplu has a range of small guest houses and basic hotels. The season runs from May to October, when the weather is mild and the orchards are in fruit or blossom. Spring and autumn are cooler, and winter can be cold with snow. Nights are cool even in summer, so bring a warm layer.

There are a few basic restaurants and shops in the bazaar. Mobile coverage is limited, and internet may be slow. Cash is useful as there are few ATMs; the nearest reliable ones are in Skardu. Some areas near the Line of Control in Baltistan may require a No Objection Certificate (NOC). Rules change, so check current official advice before travelling.

Permits and access

Parts of Baltistan, especially near the Line of Control, may require an NOC. This can be arranged in Skardu or Gilgit. Regulations can change, so confirm with local authorities before planning a trip to remote valleys.

Frequently asked questions